Visiting
Caitlin Graaf explains how intrepid travellers can experience the mountain gorillas of Virunga by following responsible tourism practices
Located on the eastern border of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), Virunga National Park is one of Africa's most treasured natural areas. Dense rainforest, open savannas, mountains, volcanoes, and permanent glaciers make Virunga the continent's most biologically diverse national park, as well as the oldest (dating back to 1925). A kaleidoscope of species exists here – perhaps most notably the endangered mountain gorilla.
A volatile environment for conservation
Political unrest in eastern DRC has turned tourism into a risky business in the region. This has created a dichotomy in the park: tourism dollars are needed to protect this important place, yet safety concerns often drive tourists to the neighboring countries of Rwanda and Uganda.
In recent history, the story of heroic bravery surrounding the park's military-trained rangers has hit the spotlight.
“Being a ranger in Virunga is considered the most dangerous job in wildlife,” says Jessica Hatcher in her National Geographic article showcasing the park's first group of female rangers. This dedicated and highly skilled group of rangers is at the helm of gorilla conservation – protecting this critically endangered species from habitat destruction and poaching that occurs as a result of the charcoal cartel and the encroachment of rebel forces in the area.
“We do not want to lose a single gorilla, because they are among the last in the world. We have few. Losing them is criminal in my eyes. Animals need to live in peace and we chose to protect them so they can have that.”
– Chief Park Warden of the Southern Sector, Innocent Mburanumwe
Tourism as a catalyst for change
The allure of uninterrupted wilderness and territory unchartered by most tourists still draws the intrepid few to eastern DRC.
Mikeno – Virunga's mainstay luxury lodge – collected one million dollars in revenue from over 5,000 tourists in 2010 and 2011. According to the Virunga Alliance, 30 per cent of the park's revenue – including that of Mikeno Lodge – is redirected back into community-development projects. This supports the effort to realize the organization's progressive Congolese-led sustainable development strategy.
The injection of tourist dollars undoubtedly has the potential to catalyze the Virunga area's developmental needs, but a critical stance towards tourism in gorilla conservation is essential to ensure that the park's small gorilla population is not put at risk by the same effort that is meant to protect them.
'Ecotourism' is often a loosely adhered to concept that has become mainstreamed by an influx of well-intentioned travelers. In a place as sensitive as Virunga, tourism's inherent capacity for environmental degradation must be carefully monitored and mitigated, and tourists must play an active role in minimizing their impact.
“Great ape tourism must result in improved conservation of the apes and their habitat, achievable only if tourism supports conservation activities in the habitat and stimulates support for conservation.”
– IUCN “Best Practice Guidelines for Great Ape Tourism”
Becoming a responsible tourist
The responsible tourist must come to terms with the thrill of catching a glimpse of an animal in the wild for its intrinsic value, not for the prospect of coming into close contact with that creature.
The International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN) reminds travelers and tourism companies alike of the importance of developing true and sustainable expectations of gorilla encounters.
In its “Best Practice Guidelines for Great Ape Tourism”, IUCN says: “Any guarantee of viewing will heighten tourists' expectations and put pressure on field staff to meet them, even at risk of failing to adhere to rules and regulations… Activities must be marketed appropriately so that visitors understand that they are contributing to lower-impact tourism by staying further away from the animals, viewing from a platform, and not clearing vegetation.”
In this vein, Conservation Scientist for the International Gorilla Conservation Programme, Dr. Jena Hickey, outlines the importance of maintaining a safe distance between tourists and gorillas. She warns that while tourism revenue contributes substantially to the protection of gorillas, there are many human-related stressors that, collectively, could have negative impacts on gorilla health and wellbeing.
The world's population of mountain gorillas exists in only two areas: Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (Uganda) and the Virunga Massif (DRC, Rwanda, Uganda). Hickey reminds us that the small number of remaining gorillas – totaling between about 700 and 900 individuals – makes them vulnerable to disease outbreaks.
She says that “maintaining a healthy distance is best for the gorillas” and favors the use of medical face masks, a precaution that is mandatory in DRC, but not as commonly practiced in Rwanda or Uganda.
Hickey also urges travelers to take responsibility for sticking to protocol. She suggests reinforcing guidelines set by rangers by voicing your appreciation of the rules. Ask the ranger to remind you to stay an appropriate distance away from the gorillas, and make it clear that you do not need vegetation to be cut or removed for your photographs. Respect the time limitation for your visit by not dawdling or asking your guide to stay longer.
Such a change in tourist mindset should encourage guides to continue propagating sustainable tourism practices, and not feel the need to push the boundaries to provide memorable tourist experiences at the gorillas' expense.
As Jena Hickey says: “We are at risk of loving them to death if we don't respect the spirit of the gorilla-trekking protocols.”
Green Adventures December 2016
Equally passionate about equality, conservation, and exploring new cultures, Caitlin has dedicated her career to improving the social and ecological impacts of travel. She holds a Master's in Tourism, Environment & Development from King's College London and a Certificate in Sustainable Business Strategy from Harvard Business School Online and has worked on sustainable tourism projects around the world. Connect with Caitlin on LinkedIn.